Masa means 'dough' in Mexican. It's the dense dough made from fresh field corn. Its deep yellow hue comes from the addition of calcium oxide to the water in which it's boiled. The mineral softens the outer casing of the kernels, rendering the interior more nutritious. Then it is ground with a rough stone metate.

The Ancient Mexican Indians called corn 'a gift of the gods'. The invading Spanish conquistadors had no idea what it was or what to do with it but became quick converts.

It's hard to get hold of the type you need to make your own masa if you want to go beyond the handy Maseca Instant Corn Mix that is now commonly used by Mexicans in Mexico. In the greater Washington area, you can get it by telephoning Moctec, in Landover, and showing up at the Mexican products and tortilla factory owned by Texan Victor Vasquez.

Moctec Interprises, 3601 West St, Landover, 301 386 9090.

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