Quince season is short, so run out to a Middle Eastern market like Yekta or an Asian market like H Mart or Le Market, and pick out some of these yellow, pear-like and scented fruits to chop into a rough-on-the-tongue stewed puree or to make membrillo, the Spanish paste to eat with Manchego or Cheddar cheese, or for an exquisite translucent coral pink jelly to go with cold meats.

Peel and core 2 - 4 quinces and pulsate them in a blender with the juice of a lemon. Scoop the mush into a measuring cup. For as many cups of fruit as you have, add an equal number of cups of sugar and put both into a heavy-bottomed pan with a couple of strips of washed lemon peel. Cook over low heat, stirring frequently, to cook the fruit and dry it out. Once it turns a good coral pink, smooth it out on a piece of buttered parchment paper laid over a baking tray (not wax paper - that will melt) and place it in a 150F oven to dry out, in about an hour. Just lift a corner. If it bends away easily, it's dry.

Leave to cool, then cut into strips and serve with cheese. It will keep wrapped in parchment paper in the fridge for around 2 - 3 weeks - if you haven't eaten it. It makes a good seasonal present.